What to do about hyperpigmentation?
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Have you ever noticed brown spots or discolorations appearing on your face or skin? These can be caused by a variety of factors, including sun exposure, medications, hormonal changes, acne, inflammation, skin aging, over-exfoliation and more. Let’s take a closer look at these spots and how to deal with them.
In short: what helps against hyperpigmentation?
Where do pigment spots come from?
Hyperpigmentation develops when your skin locally produces more pigment (melanin). Common causes are the sun, inflammation such as acne, hormones (in melasma, also known as pregnancy mask) and skin aging. Irritation, for example from peels that are too strong, can also cause pigment spots.
What you can do yourself
Protect your skin from the sun every day: the Dutch Cancer Society (KWF) recommends at least SPF30 with UVA protection and reapplying every 2 hours when you are outside. For melasma, the Dutch GP information site Thuisarts and the Dutch Society for Dermatology (NVDV) recommend factor 50. Wear a cap or hat, irritate your skin as little as possible and exfoliate gently. Be patient: pigment spots fade slowly, often over months.
When should you have a spot checked?
See your GP if a spot gets bigger, changes shape or color, has several colors or blurred edges, itches or bleeds, or looks different from your other spots. For persistent melasma, your GP or a dermatologist can also help you consider a treatment.
Sources: Thuisarts.nl on melasma, NVDV on melasma, KWF on sun protection and Thuisarts.nl on spots you don't trust.
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is a condition in which certain areas of the skin become darker than the surrounding skin. This happens because more pigment (melanin) is produced than normal. This is often a reaction to triggers such as sunlight, inflammation, hormonal changes or irritation, for example from incorrect use of cosmetics. But spots on the face can also develop with normal skin aging.
Hyperpigmentation causes
There are different types of hyperpigmentation with different causes.
Pigment spots due to sun
Long-term exposure to the sun can lead to a build-up of pigment, resulting in dark spots on the skin, especially on the forehead, cheeks and nose. Read 10 tips for responsible sunbathing here.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
This occurs after inflammation, such as acne or skin irritation, and often leaves dark spots in the areas where the inflammation took place. Also read how to gently care for skin with pimples.
Hyperpigmentation in dark skin
In people with darker skin tones, the spots are often more intense and can be more difficult to treat.
Melasma during pregnancy (pregnancy mask)
During pregnancy, dark spots can develop under the influence of hormones. This is called melasma and is also known as pregnancy mask, because the spots often appear on the forehead, upper lip and cheeks. According to Thuisarts, they usually go away on their own after giving birth, although this can take months. In the meantime, protect your skin well from the sun. Agents such as tretinoin and hydroquinone are not suitable during pregnancy. You can read which ingredients are best avoided in our guide on skincare during pregnancy.
Hormonal pigment spots
Outside of pregnancy, hormones can also trigger melasma, for example through the use of the contraceptive pill. Melasma is a pigment spot caused by hormonal changes. Spots caused by the pill often remain visible after stopping the pill. Sunlight and heredity also play a role.
Pigment spots due to peels
In recent years, many intense peels for home use have been brought onto the market with high percentages of AHA and BHA, such as glycolic acid. At first, it may seem that the skin improves, but if you peel too often or too strongly, your skin becomes irritated. And it is precisely irritation that can cause new pigment spots, especially if you don't stay out of the sun enough afterwards. So always follow the instructions of skin specialists or the instructions for use.
A mild peeling can help make pigment spots gradually less visible.
Pigment spots as you get older
Age spots are caused by skin aging. The older you get, the more spots you get. Heredity also plays a role. Some people get age spots at a relatively young age, because their development lies in the genes.
Sun and age spots
Finally, sun exposure is a major factor. The more sunlight your skin has seen, the more and the earlier in life age spots will appear.
There are 4 types of age spots:
1. Sun spots on the skin. Lentigo solaris (liver spots)
These age spots are the most common and the most well-known. They are known as “liver spots” or “sun spots”.
2. Verruca seborrhoica (age warts)
These age spots are usually wart-like or cauliflower-shaped and can sometimes grow to large sizes of up to several centimeters in diameter. However, some age warts are flattened and light or dark brown in color, and then look very much like liver spots or even ordinary moles.
3. Senile angiomas (blood blisters, ruby spots)
Unlike liver spots and age warts, these age spots are not brown but red or purple in color. They are also known as blood blisters. The English terms are ruby spots or cherry spots, named after the color. These spots are also completely harmless.
4. Idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis (white age spots)
A difficult name, but they are better known as “white age spots”. So in addition to dark age spots, there are also light or white age spots. These are white round spots of about 3 to 8 mm, mainly on the arms and legs and other sun-exposed areas such as the décolleté. What is striking about these white round spots is that they never merge into larger spots.
Do pigment spots go away on their own?
That depends on the type. Spots after inflammation or during pregnancy often fade gradually, although this can take months. Age spots and melasma are more persistent and can come back, especially after sun exposure. That is why preventing pigment spots is most important.
Treating hyperpigmentation
Although it is difficult to completely get rid of hyperpigmentation on your face, here are some tips to reduce it.
If you know they are harmless pigment spots, there are several ways to make them less visible.
1. Protect your skin from the sun: this is the basis for preventing further pigmentation. KWF recommends at least SPF30 that also protects against UVA, reapplying every 2 hours and also taking care on cloudy days and in the shade. For melasma, Thuisarts and the NVDV recommend factor 50.
The difference between factor 30 and 50 is smaller than often thought. SPF30 blocks about 96.7% of UVB radiation, SPF50 about 98%. No sunscreen protects 100%.
The factor mainly says something about time: how long you can stay in the sun before your skin turns slightly red. If your skin turns red after 10 minutes without protection, factor 30 would in theory give you 10 × 30 = 300 minutes. In practice, hardly anyone applies enough to reach that protection, and sweat, water and wiping also remove sunscreen. That is why KWF advises reapplying every 2 hours, whatever factor you use. Just as important is choosing a broad-spectrum product that also protects against UVA, applying enough and reapplying regularly. We deliberately chose SPF30 with uncoated, non-nano zinc oxide: a higher factor needs a lot more zinc, which quickly leaves a white cast or a draggy feel. A good, mineral sunscreen such as Food for Skin SPF30 is nourishing and light enough to use daily as a day cream.
2. Wear a cap or hat and stay out of the sun as much as possible between 12:00 and 15:00. The sun makes hyperpigmentation darker.
3. Topical active ingredients: creams and serums with ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, retinoids or AHAs such as glycolic acid can help make pigment spots less visible. Our products are not a pigmentation treatment, but a mild exfoliant such as the Apple Peeling can complement your routine.
4. Medical treatments: for persistent spots or melasma, your GP can prescribe azelaic acid or tretinoin, for example. Such a treatment often takes 3 to 6 months and the spots can come back. A dermatologist can also recommend peels or laser therapy. Make sure you really have this done at a good clinic, because such a treatment can in turn cause hyperpigmentation if it is not carried out properly or the aftercare is not followed, such as staying completely out of the sun for a while.
When should you have a spot checked?
Most pigment spots are harmless. According to Thuisarts, you should see your GP if a spot:
gets bigger or changes shape;
has several colors, such as different shades of brown, or blue, red, black or white;
has blurred edges or is not round or not the same on all sides;
itches, bleeds or has a small wound or scab;
looks very different from your other spots.
If melasma bothers you a lot and you want to have it treated, you can also go to your GP.
Remember: it is important to be patient, as reducing pigmentation is a gradual process.
What to do against pigment spots? Tips for daily care
1. Cleanse your face with a mild cleanser (preferably without foam!) to remove impurities and keep your skin healthy. For example with the Carrot Cleanser.
2. Use mild products that don't irritate the skin, especially if you have sensitive skin or acne. After all, irritation can cause new pigment spots.
3. Use a mild SPF30 or higher with UVA and UVB protection every day, even when it is cloudy, and reapply regularly when you are outside. For example Food for Skin SPF30.
4. Use a mild peeling once or twice a week and protect your skin extra well from the sun afterwards.
5. Consult a dermatologist for tailored advice and a treatment that best suits your skin and the severity of the pigmentation.
Conclusion: what helps against hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation can be a challenge, but with the right care, daily sun protection and, if needed, an appropriate treatment, you can make the spots less visible.
Remember: it is important to be patient, as reducing pigmentation is a gradual process. And remember that a healthy lifestyle and good skin care are the foundation for strong and radiant skin, no matter your age.
Keep shining!
