The ingredients list isn't something many people glance at immediately. Understandably, an INCI list feels technical, clinical, and inaccessible. Long Latin names. Synthetic-sounding terms. No idea where to begin, right? We had the same problem!
Unfortunately, it's the place where you see what a product really is. Not the label or advertising claims like "natural" or "clean." But the back of the pack, where every ingredient must be listed honestly and in a fixed order.
What is an INCI list and why is it mandatory?
An INCI list is the official ingredient list for a cosmetic product. INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients . It's an international standard legally required on all skin care packaging.
When we started Food for Skin, we wanted to display our ingredients the way you would read a recipe, using our recognizable, natural ingredients. We discovered this wasn't allowed and that it's mandatory to display the official INCI list. Where space allows, we try to add additional recognizable words in parentheses on labels and boxes. And on our website, you'll always find the INCI list written out in "recognizable Dutch." Because Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Juice is simply the juice of the tomato plant!
Is the INCI list the same as the ingredients list?
Yes. In cosmetics, the INCI list is simply the official list of ingredients.
All ingredients must be listed here in full and in strict order, from highest to lowest concentration. Nothing may be omitted.
Words like "natural," "pure," or "free from" don't need to be substantiated here. The INCI list isn't advertising. It's the actual composition. That's precisely why this is the only place where you can objectively see what you're putting on your skin.
Where can you find the INCI list on a product?
The INCI list is often found on the packaging. You can often find it on the back of the bottle or tube.
Sometimes the ingredients list isn't on the product itself, but on the outer packaging, such as the box. If you throw that away, the information disappears as well.
For smaller packages, where space is simply limited, the list may appear on a leaflet. You can recognize this by a small hand icon with a booklet.
If you buy online, the full INCI list must be included in the product description. You're entitled to complete transparency before ordering.
Why the name 'ingredients list' is often confusing
Many consumers scan an ingredient list for recognizable words. If you see something familiar, it feels good. But INCI names are international and standardized. This means every ingredient has the same name worldwide. Not the creative marketing term, but the official name. And that's a good thing, because it prevents brands from using their own fancy names to make an ingredient sound more appealing or natural than it actually is. But as a consumer, it's not so easy to recognize what's actually there. You almost have to be a chemist to understand the list. But we'll try to give you some pointers!
Why the order of ingredients is so important
An INCI list always lists ingredients from highest to lowest in concentration. What's listed first is present in the most. What's listed last is present in the least.
It immediately tells you how a product is made up. An easy one to recognize and pay attention to is water. If water is listed as the first ingredient, it's the base. If a vegetable oil is listed first, that oil forms the core of the formula.
We believe in waterless skincare . Pure formulas with only ingredients that actually benefit your skin. A cream requires a water phase for mixing. Many products simply add water for this. A cheap filler that adds nothing.
We do things differently. In our natural creams, we use tomato juice or aloe vera juice as a base. Yes, that naturally contains water, but also antioxidants, vitamins, and active ingredients that nourish and strengthen your skin. This way, the water phase actually has a function for your skin.
What do the first ingredients say?
The first ingredients form the foundation of the formula. They determine the thickness, texture, and overall skin feel. But that doesn't mean everything that comes afterward is unimportant.
Some active ingredients are actually effective in low concentrations. For safety or stability reasons, certain ingredients may not be formulated at concentrations higher than 1 to 2 percent, as they can cause irritation. Therefore, a low percentage doesn't automatically indicate effectiveness or potency.
The first ingredients determine what the product is built on, but active ingredients can be listed lower but still have a significant impact.
At the same time, it's possible that an ingredient is added in a very low concentration primarily for marketing purposes. Consider an "avocado shampoo" where avocado oil is listed at the very bottom of the ingredients list. In such a case, the ingredient likely doesn't play a significant role in the product's effectiveness.
At Food for Skin, our products are named after ingredients that either make up the majority of the ingredients or have an active ingredient function. For example, our Tomato Base Cream is made up of a whopping 88% tomato! No marketing gimmick, just an honest story.
Ingredients under 1%
All ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order. Therefore, the precise order at the end of the list is less meaningful than the order at the top of the list. Pay extra attention to fragrances and allergens. Even in small amounts, they can be harmful to your skin.
How do you recognize natural ingredients in an INCI list?
Reading an INCI list without tools like an app isn't easy. However, you can learn to recognize patterns. The more you look at ingredient lists, the more familiar the terms will become.
Latin plant names as a point of recognition
Herbal ingredients are always listed in an INCI list with their official botanical, Latin name. This ensures that the name remains consistent worldwide.
For example, if you see Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil or Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice , it's an ingredient derived from a plant. Extracts also usually carry the botanical name first, followed by "extract."
Names ending in seed oil , fruit extract , leaf juice , or root extract refer to a specific plant part. These terms are standardized. A manufacturer may not simply label a fully synthetic substance as seed oil if it is not derived from a seed.
It's important to understand what this doesn't mean. Such a designation doesn't automatically mean the ingredient is unprocessed, organic, or cold-pressed. It only indicates its origin, not its quality or degree of processing.
In addition, it is not a foolproof tactic because there are also synthetically imitated ingredients that are indistinguishable from the natural ones by name.
In short, terms like Seed Oil or Leaf Juice indicate plant origin, but say nothing about how pure or minimally processed the ingredient is.
Oils, extracts and ferments
Plant oils often form the basis of natural skincare. Many of these oils contain fatty acids similar to the lipids in our skin. Research shows that certain fatty acids can help support the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss.
Extracts provide another layer of activity. They contain antioxidants and bioactive compounds that can help protect the skin. Their effectiveness depends on the concentration and formulation.
Ferments are used because fermentation can convert substances into smaller or more readily available components. Some studies suggest this can enhance biological activity. This aligns with the growing research on the skin microbiome and the role of microorganisms in skin balance.
This creates a formula that supports the skin based on existing processes, instead of completely taking over them.
Common Misconceptions When Reading Ingredients
Misunderstandings often arise from scattered information without context. A single word or ingredient is considered and immediately labeled. Then, an entire formula is declared good or bad.
But an ingredient list isn't black and white. It's about composition, concentration, and function within the whole. Without that context, you can easily jump to incorrect conclusions. Learning to observe calmly prevents that.
Synthetic is always bad
No! Not every synthetic substance is inherently problematic. There are many wonderful synthetic ingredients that are safe and stable and serve a clear function in a formula, such as preserving or improving stability.
The problem arises primarily from substances that have no effect on the skin or are very aggressive. Think of many fragrances that can irritate the skin and even cause skin allergies in the long run. Or strong stripping ingredients that provide good results in the short term, but leave your skin dependent and weak in the long run.
It's also important to note that everyone has a different perspective. Some platforms pay close attention to perfume and scent, while others focus on the quality of the ingredients. So, decide for yourself what's important to you and focus on that.
If it sounds natural, it is natural
Unfortunately, no! Of course, it's not a protected term, like "organic" is. So the label might be green with pretty leaves and birds, but that doesn't say anything about the contents. The INCI list only shows what's actually in it.
Which ingredients require extra attention in natural skin care
In products with natural claims, you sometimes encounter ingredients that don't actually fit the narrative. This doesn't automatically mean they're bad or unsafe, but it does mean it's always wise to be critical. Especially if you value something being 100% natural and/or having a reduced impact on the planet.
You can read below how we do it.
For more information, read: Skin care without microplastics
The Food for Skin way to evaluate an INCI list
We take a holistic approach. We don't focus on a single ingredient that stands out and is useful for marketing, but on the formula as a whole. A robust composition with only ingredients that truly benefit your skin.
Although many ingredients are not prohibited, there are a number of groups that are regularly discussed and therefore we prefer to avoid them.
Parabens
Methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, and propylparaben are synthetic preservatives. They are used to extend the shelf life of products. There has been debate about potential hormone-disrupting effects of some varieties, which is why certain parabens have since been restricted or banned within the EU.
Sulfates
Such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES). These are cleansing foams. They clean effectively, but can also be drying or irritating for sensitive skin types.
Phthalates
They are used as solvents or to retain fragrance longer. Some phthalates are now banned in cosmetics in Europe due to potential health risks.
Mineral oils
Such as paraffinum liquidum or mineral oil. They form a protective layer on the skin. This isn't necessarily harmful, but they don't actively nourish the skin the way vegetable oils do.
PEGs and ethoxylated surfactants
Recognizable by names containing PEG or -eth. These are used as emulsifiers or solvents. They are synthetically produced and do not fit within a completely natural philosophy.
Perfume / Fragrance
Regarding perfume, it's important to know that "parfum" or "fragrance" is a collective term on the INCI list. It can be a composition of dozens of different fragrances and aromas. The manufacturer is not required to disclose the exact composition, as it is protected as a trade secret.
This means that under "Perfume," you can't see which specific fragrances are present, except when certain allergens exceed the legal threshold. These must be listed separately.
With perfume, you have absolutely no idea of the exact composition. That's why we deliberately choose 0% perfume.
Synthetic dyes
Recognizable by CI numbers such as CI 26100 or F&D C-colors. They have no skin function and are added for appearance.
Briefly read the INCI list for natural skin care
An INCI list is fact. Claims are marketing. The order shows what a formula is actually based on. One ingredient means little without the whole formula.
So, decide for yourself what's important to you. A simple step is to start paying attention to water (aqua) if you want a pure, waterless formula that will last a long time. A second simple step is perfume (fragrance). After that, you can determine which other ingredients you'd like to avoid and learn to recognize. Fortunately, there are also many apps that can help you.
