Natural sunscreen: what is it, how does it work and which one to choose

Sun protection is more important than ever. Not only because of the increase in skin cancer, but also due to growing environmental awareness. Natural sunscreen is therefore gaining popularity. But what exactly is natural sunscreen? How does it differ from synthetic (also known as chemical) sunscreen? And is it safe for children, people with sensitive skin, or eczema? In short: Are you looking for a sunscreen that is good for your skin and the environment? Then you've come to the right place. In this comprehensive article, we provide clear answers to all questions about natural sunscreen, with facts, figures, experiences, and independent sources.

In this article, we will cover:

• What is natural sunscreen?

• Is it a chemical or synthetic filter?

• Differences between natural and synthetic sunscreen

• Nano versus non-nano

• What makes natural sunscreen unique?

• Is sunscreen harmful to coral?

• Are all natural sunscreens safe and effective?

• What ingredients should you avoid in "regular" sunscreens?

• Which brands offer sustainable sunscreen?

• Which brands offer sustainable sunscreen?

• Natural sunscreen for children and sensitive skin (such as eczema)

• Environmental friendliness of natural sunscreen

• What does water resistant mean for sunscreen?

• How to choose the right SPF for natural sunscreen?

• Practical tips for safe use of natural sunscreen

What is natural sunscreen?

Natural sunscreen is a type of sun protection product that primarily consists of mineral UV filters, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, instead of synthetic-chemical filters. Mineral filters work by forming a physical barrier on the skin: they reflect and block UV rays, while synthetic-chemical UV filters (such as oxybenzone or avobenzone) absorb radiation and convert it into heat. Natural sunscreens often also contain nourishing ingredients from nature, such as vegetable oils and natural waxes, and usually no microplastics, parabens, or artificial fragrances.

Chemical or synthetic?

In popular speech, natural sunscreen is often compared to chemical sunscreen. Strictly speaking, this is not a good choice of words, because all creams are made in a chemical way. A chemical process does not automatically mean that something "unnatural" or "synthetic" is involved. It simply refers to the mixing, preserving, thickening, or stabilizing of substances to create a final product. Therefore, the comparison natural/mineral versus synthetic would be better.

Differences between natural and synthetic sunscreen

• UV filters: natural sunscreen uses mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) and non-mineral sunscreen uses synthetic filters.

• Function: Mineral filters reflect UV light. Synthetic filters absorb it.

• Ingredients: synthetic sun protection often contains synthetic additives such as parabens, perfumes, microplastics. Natural usually does not. If you want to be sure there are 0% synthetic substances, go for a 100% natural variant.

• Environmental impact: synthetic filters are linked to damage to coral reefs and aquatic organisms (more explanation below); mineral filters in non-nano form (more explanation below) are more environmentally friendly.

• Skin reactions: natural sunscreen is often better for sensitive skin and people with allergies.

Because mineral sun protection tends to stay on the skin more, it can feel thicker on the skin or leave a 'white cast'. In the past, you often looked like a ghost, but nowadays many formulas are developed to minimize the white cast without compromising on protection.

Nano versus non-nano

Nanoparticles are so small that they can be easily absorbed into your skin, but also into plankton, corals, and fish. Non-nano particles are less easily absorbed because they are larger. The advantage is that this is safer for the environment and body (less absorption). The disadvantage is that it is slightly thicker in texture and less transparent. Fortunately, it is still possible to make a fine, spreadable cream from it, for example, by using beautiful fruit oils.

What makes natural sunscreen unique?

Natural sun protection uses (non-nano) mineral filters, which on the one hand have less impact on the environment and on the other hand are suitable for sensitive skin. Synthetic sunscreen can potentially be harmful to coral and marine life.

You increasingly see 'reef safe' or 'ocean friendly' on packaging. Beware, these are not protected terms, so anyone could put this on the packaging. Look closely at the ingredient list.

Is sunscreen harmful to coral?

Let's start by stating: the sea and coral would probably prefer no sunscreen at all. But how strong is the evidence that synthetic sunscreen is harmful to coral? The science behind this is quite clear, but there are nuances. There are several laboratory studies that show direct damage from substances such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene. These substances cause DNA damage and lead to deformities, growth retardation, and coral bleaching. Source: research by C A Downs et al in Archives of Environmental Contamination and Toxicology. Laboratory studies have also been conducted with the mineral filters zinc oxide and titanium oxide, which showed that these filters, in the form of uncoated nanoparticles, can be harmful to coral. Source: Shengwu Yuan et al, Environmental Science & Technology 2023.

The nuance is that this has not yet been 100% established in nature. In open water, it is difficult to make direct connections, because there are many other factors that influence coral mortality (pollution, global warming, overfishing). Also, the concentrations of UV filters are lower than in lab tests.

Although there is still debate about the exact ecological impact in the wild, the scientific consensus is that certain UV filters pose a risk, which is why they are banned in some areas.

That is why we choose what is currently considered the safest option: non-nano, uncoated zinc oxide as a mineral filter.

Are all natural sunscreens safe and effective?

Not every sunscreen sold as 'natural' offers equally good protection. Choose products with clear UVA and UVB protection and at least SPF30. Make sure the filters are non-nano, as nano-form may be absorbed into the body through the skin and has an unclear environmental profile. Preferably also look for additional quality marks.

Facts and figures:

• The EU allows a maximum of 25% zinc or titanium dioxide in sunscreen. Source: gov.uk.

• Only two UV filters have been recognized as safe by the FDA: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Source: fda.gov.

• Oxybenzone was found in the blood of 97% of people tested (CDC, US). Source: U.S. Centers for Disease Control (CDC).

What ingredients should you avoid in "regular" sunscreens?

Many common synthetic UV filters are under fire due to possible hormonal disruption, allergies, and negative effects on the environment:

• Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3): linked to possible hormone-disrupting properties, reduced fertility, found in breast milk. Banned in many tropical countries due to damage to coral reefs.

• Octocrylene: breaks down into benzophenone (possibly carcinogenic), harmful to coral, often present in approx. 2400 sunscreen products worldwide.

• Homosalate: possibly hormone-disrupting, accelerates absorption of other substances through the skin, now restricted to 1.4% in Europe.

• Octinoxate: possibly hormone-disrupting and damaging to marine life.

• Avobenzone: degradation under sunlight, must be combined with other synthetic stabilizers, which can cause side effects.

• Parabens and phthalates: synthetic preservatives that can disrupt hormone balance.

Various studies show that these substances easily penetrate the body through the skin. Pay attention to labels, avoid the above ingredients, and preferably choose natural sunscreen with transparent ingredients.

Which brands offer sustainable sunscreen?

Fortunately, more and more brands are offering beautiful, natural sunscreens with minimal impact on the earth.

Some 100% natural sun protection brands without microplastics are:

1. Food for Skin SPF30. 100% natural, non-nano zinc oxide, 100% PCR tube, very nourishing, no perfume, produced in the Netherlands.

2. Beach Street, non-nano zinc oxide, plastic-free.

3. Nourished. Zinc oxide, made in the Netherlands, with vanilla extract.

4. Loveli. Non-nano zinc oxide. Choose the fragrance-free version.

5. Loïs Lee. Non-nano zinc oxide. Note: SPF20.

6. Inika. Zinc oxide, fragrance-free.

7. Witlof Skincare. SPF30 day cream with zinc oxide (make sure to apply enough!).

8. SMPL. Titanium dioxide, nano coated. Fragrance-free.

Natural sunscreen for children and sensitive skin (such as eczema)

Natural sunscreen is generally suitable for babies, children, and people with sensitive or eczema-prone skin. Mineral filters such as zinc oxide form a layer on the skin and hardly penetrate the body at all. This minimizes the risk of irritation and hormonal disruption. Make sure the product does not contain perfume or harsh alcohols, as these can also often be triggers.

Environmental friendliness of natural sunscreen

Synthetic sunscreens can end up in the sea while swimming. Some UV filters, such as oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate, are linked to potential harm to aquatic life, including coral, fish, and plankton. For this reason, several countries, particularly in tropical areas, have banned the use of these ingredients. Mineral sunscreen, especially with non-nano zinc oxide, is generally considered the most environmentally friendly option.

Note: 'Reef safe' or 'ocean friendly' are not protected terms. Therefore, always check the ingredient list.

What does water resistant mean for sunscreen?

Water resistant in sunscreen means that the product still offers protection for a certain period after contact with water. With regular sunscreen, it washes off faster during swimming or sweating. It is also better for coral and marine life if the sun protection stays on your body as much as possible.

Nevertheless, it is advised to reapply after swimming, as some of it may have worn off due to friction, toweling off, etc.

How to choose the right SPF for natural sunscreen?

The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates how much longer you are protected against UVB radiation. SPF30 means approx. 97% protection, SPF50 about 98%. For children, people with fair skin, or with longer exposure, at least SPF30/50 is recommended. Always choose 'broad spectrum' protection (UVA and UVB). This is clearly stated on the packaging of good natural sunscreen products.

Practical tips for safe use of natural sunscreen

• Apply generously: use two fingers' worth (lengthwise) per body part. For example: two for arms, two for neck and face, etc. Source: KWF.

• Reapply every 2 hours and always after swimming, sweating, or drying off.

• Don't forget ears, nose, neck, feet, and the back of the legs.

• Dress children in light clothing, use a hat/cap, and protective clothing as extra protection.

• Avoid the sun between 12 PM and 3 PM when radiation is strongest, and always seek shade often.

• If possible, choose environmentally friendly, recyclable packaging (e.g., a 100% PCR tube).

• Additional tips

Conclusion

Natural sunscreen offers an effective and relatively environmentally friendly alternative to regular sunscreen. Especially for children, sensitive skin, eczema, or environmentally conscious users, natural sunscreen is the easiest and best choice. When purchasing, carefully check the ingredients, pay attention to 'non-nano' minerals, and preferably choose fragrance-free variants. Don't forget: sunscreen, no matter how good, never offers 100% complete protection. Don't spend hours basking in the sun, protect yourself with clothing, and seek shade.